This year, Chanel’s prefall presentation took a gilded leaf
from the antique pages of the Byzantine era. Dubbed the Paris Byzance
collection, the stately Rue Cambon couture salons in Paris were transformed
into a veritable Ottoman palace for the show, with deeply saturated purples and
gold; beaded, sequined curtains and carpets; and walls and stained-glass tables
engraved with motifs inspired by Ravenna’s frescos.

Silhouettes were slinky and contemporary, an ultra-feminine
reinterpretation of traditional tunics and togas. Asymmetrical draping with
loose panels at the front and back featured prominently, and were presented in Chanel’s
signature tweed interwoven with satin leather, velvet, cashmere, chiffon and
tulle. The detailing was exquisitely wrought: buttons were jeweled stones and the
arabesque appliqués were trimmed with gold.

The belts and jewelry, embellished with square glass beads, filigreed
gilt metal and enameling, referenced Mademoiselle Chanel’s Byzantine-inspired costume
jewelry in the 1920s. On feet, sandals shimmered jewel-like, with mosaic
bracelets and arabesque cut-outs. Thigh-high boots glinted with richly colored
glass beading. Ballet pumps were tipped with gold filigree, and crafted from
luxurious pony skin and crocodile leather.

Bags and minaudières were similarly shot through with
Byzantine splendor, gold running through burnt-out tweed, embedded precious
stones and embellished braids serving as appliqués.

Chanel.com